Oaxaca's Day of the Dead Parades: Calendas, Comparsas, and Muerteadas

While the cemetery candlelight vigils are the main events and the crescendo of the Día de los Muertos season in Oaxaca, the comparsas (Halloween-themed parades) are the lively celebrations that fill the streets with music, costumes, and a sense of community presence that not only lead up to but continue well after the cemetery vigils — often lasting a week well past November 2nd.

And real quick for context — a colonia is a local neighborhood outside the historic centers of major Mexican cities, similar to a borough, barrio, or neighborhood. And the term doesn't necessarily indicate a low-income area either. For example, La Colonia del Valle is an affluent neighborhood in Mexico City. Which coincidentally, my grandmother lives in a colonia of the same name in Oaxaca — but it's not a colonia for tourists or even for locals. Not even gonna lie.

The Difference Between Each Parade in Oaxaca

Oaxaca is famous for its lively public parades, known as calendas, which wind through the cobbled streets of the historic center and neighboring colonias. So whether you're visiting for a weekend or an extended stay, chances are you'll come across at least one of these processions — maybe even a wedding or two. Now, at first glance, they might all look the same, with their signature brass-heavy Mexican polka music band parading up and down the narrow streets. But each parade has its own name and significant cultural difference. Let's break them down:

Calendas

These are the most common parades you'll encounter in Oaxaca, celebrating everything from weddings and quinceañeras to workers' union anniversaries, town festivals (Mayordomías), birthdays, and even funerals. Calendas often include stilt walkers, giant puppets resembling the people being honored, and a massive ball called a Marmota leading the procession. And if you're lucky, you might even see traditional female dancers known as Chinas Oaxaqueñas — specifically during wedding Calendas and the parades held during the Guelaguetza in July.

Comparsas

Comparsas are parades specifically for Día de los Muertos, where participants dress up in either traditional folk costumes or Halloween-inspired outfits. Families and friends often coordinate around a theme, and there's usually a fee if you want to participate in a full costume. For safety reasons however, it is best to avoid wearing one unless you have arranged it with the organizers in advance. However, you are more than welcome to join without a costume or by wearing a simple mask. Though if you're participating alone, I recommend you not to wear a mask at all — not gonna lie, it's really more for your personal safety.

And throughout the night, several households host the comparsa, tossing fruit, candy, and sometimes food. Bread, hot chocolate, or mezcal are often served to the crowd — at least to those who manage to get into the courtyard of each home hosting the comparsa for the twenty or so minutes the band is inside. The festivities can go on until the early morning hours, and the money collected typically goes toward paying the band. Now it's worth noting that the term comparsa is used throughout Spain and Latin America for local parade carnivals and religious festivals.

La Muerteada

Unique to the Etla region of Oaxaca, La Muerteada is a variation of the comparsa that lasts almost twenty-four hours, beginning in the afternoon of November 1st and ending at midday on November 2nd. The centerpiece of La Muerteada is a theatrical performance of a widow mourning her deceased husband, whom she tries to revive with the help of shamans and otherworldly beings. This event often includes political satire and commentary on current events. After the performance, La Muerteada continues with all the lively elements of a typical Comparsa.

La Octava

La Octava means "the eighth night" and is a recreation of the original comparsa that took place exactly one week earlier at the same location. And according to Catholic tradition, the mourning period for the deceased lasts nine nights, with the eighth night serving as a celebration of the deceased's life. It is a time to honor their memory, reflect on their legacy, and find comfort in the belief that their spirit lives on. La Muerteada also has its own accompanying Octava celebration a week later.

Comparsas in Oaxaca Centro vs Comparas in the Colonias

If you stay in Oaxaca Centro during the Day of the Dead season (the last two weeks of October), you are guaranteed to bump into a Día de los Muertos comparsa on any given night. However, there are a few differences between the ones in the downtown area and those in the colonias. As you might have guessed, the comparsas in Oaxaca Centro are geared more toward tourists. They have a polished, choreographed look that focus more on traditional folklore themes. They are visually stunning, no doubt, but are more of a spectacle for onlookers — more laid-back, where participation is not encouraged. Meaning, you'll find yourself watching from the sidewalk. Which isn't bad honestly, especially if you're a few shots of mezcal in — as you should be.

On the other hand, the comparsas in the colonias are chaotic, loud, with a Halloween-inspired twist, and — not gonna lie — a little dangerous. Not in a you’ll get mugged kind of way, but more like you might get hit by flying plates, fruit, or rock hard candy, even singed by sparks from fireworks or a homemade flamethrower if you're not aware of your surroundings. You have been warned.

Now, these parades are less formal and far more participatory, inviting you to immerse yourself in the festivities, which often last well into the following morning. The Day of the Dead parades in the hood bring a more communal experience compared to the tourist-centric celebrations in Oaxaca Centro. That said, both have their own appeal. The comparsas in Centro offer a beautifully curated cultural experience, but if you're up for something a little wilder and more interactive, the ones in the colonias is where you'll find the heart of the Day of the Dead celebration in Oaxaca.

Three Tips for Finding Comparsas in the Boroughs of Oaxaca

If it's your first time in Oaxaca during Día de los Muertos, I recommend sticking to the historic center. Because you will easily bump into a Day of the Dead comparsa without even trying — they are a common sight throughout the season in Oaxaca Centro. Simply step out of your hotel in the evening and boom, there it is. Plus, the historic center is filled with public Día de los Muertos altars in businesses, restaurants, and art galleries, all within walking distance of your hotel or Airbnb.

Save the off-the-beaten-path adventures for future visits, when you're more familiar with the local customs and neighborhoods. Attending community events and workshops is also a great way to meet people and immerse yourself in the celebrations. However, if you're the adventurous type—or have been to Oaxaca several times and want to participate in the comparsas outside the city — here are three tips for finding them:

Keep an Eye Out for Murals — About two weeks before a comparsa takes place, you’ll start spotting colorful murals advertising the event in the neighborhood where it will be held. These vibrant artworks act as visual invitations, so take note of them as you explore the city, towns, and colonias. The comparsa always starts exactly where the mural is painted, at the time listed. If you arrive late, just follow the sound of the music.
Facebook Groups — Facebook groups are still a great resource for staying updated on local comparsas, as they frequently post event details, parade routes, and other relevant information throughout October.
Connect With Locals — While it’s generally safe to explore a colonia on your own during a comparsa, having a local friend can give you valuable insight into the neighborhood’s dynamics and help you navigate local customs, politics, or any turf-related tensions that might exist. The last thing you want is to get stuck in the boonies late at night.
Flyers — Even though we live in a hyper-connected digital world of social media, flyers are still a solid way to find out what local events are happening throughout the year in Oaxaca. During the Día de los Muertos season especially, I recommend checking the flyers posted on the wood doors of Boulenc and Taller Grafico de Oaxaca to see what local Day of the Dead events are coming up, as well as tour services for the cemetery vigils outside the city — specifically the one in Xoxocotlán.

Muerteadas Oaxaca in Villa de Etla

As mentioned earlier, La Muerteada is the granddaddy of comparsas, but what sets it apart is that you can only experience it in the Etla region of Oaxaca. This 24-hour event kicks off in the late afternoon on November 1st and features a unique twist: before the parade begins, La Muerteada starts with a theatrical performance of resurrection. As I mentioned earlier, the performance often incorporates political satire and commentary on current events.

Personally, I have never attended a Muerteada in all my years, on account that there is no public transportation back to Oaxaca Centro that late. Plus, hotel rooms in Etla are limited and booked months in advance. So! Unless you have your own car or can go with someone who does, it's nearly impossible to get back to Centro afterward. That, or you could just stay until sunrise. I recommend joining local Facebook groups and following the official page of La Muerteada de San Agustín Etla for updates and event details.

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