Noche de Vela: The Candlelight Vigil in the Xoxocotlán Cemetery

Someone once asked me what I'd recommend they see and do while in Oaxaca during the last two weeks of October as in, the Day of the Dead season, and I told them that as long as they stay in Oaxaca Centro — whether at a hotel or an Airbnb — all they have to do is step outside and they'll run into something festive. It might be a parade, grand altars in hotel lobbies and restaurants, or simply getting swept up by the energy of the crowd walking to and from El Zócalo. It was true then and remains true now. And honestly, if that's all you manage to do while in Oaxaca during the holiday, I'd still call it a success.

But for those who are a little more adventurous and want something beyond the "prepackaged" version, then the outdoor markets, candlelight vigils at local cemeteries, and neighborhood comparsas (parades) outside Centro might be for you. And while it's relatively safe to venture outside Oaxaca Centro, some areas are not easy to get to, let alone return from, especially late at night — even for locals. That said, it's impractical for me to list every single outdoor market and cemetery vigil, so I'll stick to the one I know best, the one in my hometown of Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán, Oaxaca. Accessible by public transportation and worth the trip if you don't mind a bit of inconvenience — though honestly, if it's your first time, staying in the Centro area is more than enough to fully enjoy Día de los Muertos in Oaxaca.

My great-aunt (in pink) and grandmother (in white) decorating the grave of my great-uncle in the panteón nuevo of Xoxocotlán.

Grave in Xoxocotlán’s panteón nuevo decorated with candles, tamales, and a bottle of mezcal during the Noche de Vela.

Elderly woman lighting candles and arranging marigolds at a family grave during the Noche de Vela in Xoxocotlán.

Brightly lit grave adorned with marigolds, lilies, and candles at the Mictlancíhuatl Cemetery in Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán.

Local woman sitting beside flower arrangements and candles at a relative’s grave in the Xoxocotlán cemetery vigil.

Elderly woman in a pink sweater pouring copal and tending to candles at a family grave during the Noche de Vela.

Families gathered around graves covered in marigolds and candles, keeping vigil late into the night in Xoxocotlán.

Noche de Vela: The Candlelight Vigil in the Xoxocotlán Cemetery

Three miles south of Oaxaca Centro, you'll find Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán (pronounced ho-ho-koht-lan), from the Náhuatl word Xoxotl, meaning "place of acidic fruits." Known locally as Xoxo (pronounced ho-ho), the town — now officially a city — is the second largest in Oaxaca's central valley region. Every year, on the night of October 31st, it hosts the crown jewel of the Day of the Dead celebration — the Noche de Vela, or candlelight vigil, held at the Mictlancíhuatl Cemetery, locally called the panteón nuevo, in honor of Mictlantecuhtli, the lord of Mictlan, the Aztec underworld.

The vigil marks the return of deceased loved ones from the underworld to the world of the living, transforming the town with food stalls, music, and carnival games that fill the streets between the panteón nuevo and panteón viejo. Free and open to the public, the vigil begins in the afternoon of October 31st and continues well into the morning of November 1st, making it the largest and most recognized Day of the Dead vigil in Oaxaca. Often considered synonymous with El Día de los Muertos in Oaxaca, where preparations begin on October 30th, when locals head to the Monte Albán hill to gather the flor de crucecita (also known as panalito), a small flower with a distinctive fragrance used to decorate altars and graves.

Until a few years ago, residents of Xoxo would draw water from the "Agua Bichita" well on the morning of October 31st, as it was said that the water's sweetness and blue hue gave better flavor to the traditional drinks placed on the altars — and that it made the hot chocolate foam beautifully. That same morning, after returning from the hill, the men would go to the flatlands to collect the coronita flower, which serves as a table covering for everything placed on the altar. Later that day, both markets set up their plaza de muertos (market for the dead), where women buy cempasúchil (marigold), flor de borla, pan de muerto, fruit, and everything else needed to welcome their departed loved ones.

Locals believe that at 3pm, the angelitos (souls of deceased children) arrive. To welcome them, the church bells ring with the toque de angelito — a mournful rhythm said to sound like "mi nene, mi nene, mi nene" (my baby, my baby, my baby). The bells continue ringing at intervals for 24 hours. After the first toque de angelito, people begin walking toward the cemeteries carrying flowers, candles, and clay skulls to decorate their loved ones' graves. Once the graves are adorned, families keep vigil through the night, warming themselves with mezcal or hot coffee.

During the vigil, a procession arrives at the old cemetery, carrying Saint Sebastian from his temple to his former chapel at the Old Cemetery, accompanied by the Reliquary of the Virgin of the Rosary and a group of prayer singers who lead a sung rosary. At the entrance, a traditional brass band plays funeral marches. The vigil ends around 7am on November 1st, when people return home with the morning light — accompanied, they say, by the angelitos who could not find their way back home the night before.

How to Get to the Xoxocotlán Cemetery from Oaxaca Centro (with Google Map links)

There are several ways to reach the Xoxo cemetery on your own, but if you're a senior citizen, traveling with family or would rather avoid the hassle of public transportation — especially late at night — I recommend booking one of the many tours available for the event, or simply sticking to the vigil hosted at the Panteón General. And while all cemetery vigils are free and open to the public, guided tours come at a cost and tend to be a bit pricey, so heads up. That said, what you're really paying for is the convenience of reliable transportation to and from the cemetery late at night — and for many, the peace of mind is well worth the price.

Some hotels might even offer transportation to and from the event, so check with your hotel first to see if they provide this option or can recommend a trusted third party. But if you're up for an adventure, you can take public transportation to Xoxo and catch a taxi back. Just remember to pack plenty of patience, because not only will you be paying a premium for a taxi late at night in Oaxaca — especially during this event — I've heard of people waiting up to three hours for one. And if you're up for it, you can even pull an all-nighter — many people don't leave until sunrise anyway.

Bus — Take the Zaachila Yoo bus from the terminal near the Red Cross and get off in front of the Mercado Municipal Santa Elena de la Cruz, across the street from Chedraui.
Foráneo Taxis — Identifiable by their burgundy color, these are by far the fastest way to get around the city. However, they don't operate like regular taxis that take you directly to your destination. Instead, they follow a fixed route. That said, if you're the first or only passenger, you can request a viaje especial — meaning you pay the fare for the other four passengers and ride alone (still along the same route, of course). Often, this ends up being cheaper than taking a yellow taxi, especially over longer distances. You can catch a Foráneo inside Arena San Francisco, a block north of the Zaachila Yoo bus terminal. Both the Zaachila and Xoxocotlán Foráneos follow the same route but have different drop-off points. If you take the Zaachila Foráneo, get off in front of the Mercado. Alternatively, the Xoxo Foráneo drops you off at Xoxo's central park.
Mercado de Xoxo — If you're dropped off in front of the Mercado de Xoxo (Municipal Santa Elena de la Cruz), head west on foot for three blocks to reach Parque Central Xoxo. The old cemetery is one block west of the park, and the new cemetery is another three blocks northwest, both within easy walking distance.