Oaxaca Día de los Muertos: Day of the Dead in 2024
An In-Depth Look of the Catholic Origin of Día de los Muertos, the Altar, Bread, Traditions and Day of the Dead Parades in Oaxaca, Mexico
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contents
prelude….
Over the last twenty years, Halloween in Los Angeles has felt less and less like Halloween. Maybe it’s because Halloween specials aren’t really a thing anymore since nobody watches 'regular' TV.
Halloween-themed events have been monopolized by local theme parks which are always sold out and filled to the brim, even when they start in late August. And not only are Halloween events limited but are often overpriced.
Worst of all, Halloween in L.A. feels rushed because retail stores, like the theme parks, push out Halloween merch way too early—like mid-August early. So, by the time the Halloween season rolls around, which in my opinion should be all of October, we mostly see Christmas decorations lining the aisles. But not in Oaxaca. In Oaxaca, the sanctity of the Halloween season is alive and well, albit under a different name.
And thanks to Coco and the elaborate opening scene of Spectre, El Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) has become more familiar to non-Hispanic Americans in the last ten years. But for those who aren't familiar with the customs, seeing Mexicans hosting vibrant celebrations for the deceased might seem strange and morbid. After all, this tradition is rooted in ancient Aztec rituals which included offerings that seem extreme by today's standards. However, those first impressions quickly fade away when visiting Oaxaca during the Halloween/Día de los Muertos season, which happens to be between mid-October to early November.
There, you’ll see how death is honored not with fear, but as a welcomed guest, while paying tribute to local heritage, surrounded by vibrant parades, candlelight vigils in local cemeteries, storefronts adorned with bright marigold flowers and grand altars in hotel lobbies. Best of all? Most of events are free. Making Día de los Muertos in Oaxaca a one-of-a-kind experience anyone can appreciate and participate in.
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What is Day of the Dead?
El Día de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, commonly referred to as “Muertos” in Oaxaca, is a national holiday in Mexico observed each year on November 2nd.
A cherished holiday when families build elaborate altars adorned with marigold flowers, Mezcal, and food, to honor and remember their departed loved ones. With the season coming alive with Comparsas—lively costume themed parades, with the best ones taking place in the colonias (boroughs) outside the city center.
However, while deeply rooted in ancient and modern Mexican culture, El Día de los Muertos is also celebrated by Mexican expats and Catholics across North America. And over the years, Mexican families have created their own versions of the celebration, with some decorating gravesites as elaborately as the altars back at home. However, the actual holiday on November 2nd is relatively quiet, not just in Oaxaca but across Mexico.
As it’s meant for quiet reflection at home with family, and many businesses close in observance. Meaning, the vibrant celebrations and events associated with Día de los Muertos take place in the two weeks leading up to November 2nd, making the Day of the Dead season practically synonymous with the cultural identity of Oaxaca in the second half of October.
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When Did Day of the Dead Start?
The origin of the Day of the Dead is a bit of a mystery, rooted in a blend of Catholic and Mesoamerican pagan beliefs that stretch back to pre-Hispanic times. In those ancient days, indigenous communities crafted human-shaped figures from amaranth dough, decorating them with prickly pear juice to symbolize blood, representing those who had crossed over into Mictlan, the Aztec underworld.
When the Conquistadors arrived during the colonization of Mexico, they were horrified by these pagan blood rituals practiced by the native peoples in Tenochtitlán, the ancient Aztec capital now known as Mexico City. In an effort to assimilate these practices into Catholicism, the Conquistadors strategically aligned this pagan festival—originally celebrated in the summer—with the Catholic holidays of All Saints Day and All Souls Day at the beginning of November.
The Catholic History and Origins of Day of the Dead
The modern interpretation of Día de los Muertos can be traced back to All Souls Day, a Catholic observance established on November 2nd in 993 by Abbot Odilo of Cluny, a Benedictine monastery in France. All Souls Day was set aside as a time to honor and remember the departed souls.
The practice of praying for the deceased has been a part of Christian customs since the second century when it was common to visit the tombs of Christian martyrs. By the fifth century, the Church designated a specific day each year to pray for all the forgotten souls of the dead. This tradition evolved over time, and in the ninth century, monasteries began dedicating a day of prayer for their deceased. By 732, Pope Gregory III authorized priests to hold Mass in memory of the deceased, further cementing this practice in Catholic tradition.
The influence of Catholicism on Día de los Muertos is evident in the fusion of pre-Hispanic beliefs with Catholic rituals. Over time, these ancient indigenous practices and Catholic customs intertwined, creating a unique cultural celebration that honors the deceased while embracing the idea of life beyond death.
The Birth of Día de los Muertos in the New World
In ancient Mexico, a month-long festival dedicated to Mictlantecuhtli, the Lord of the Land of the Dead, was celebrated each August. This festival included early versions of Pan de Muerto, a special bread now associated with Day of the Dead. However, after the conquest of the New World, this celebration became intertwined with All Hallowtide, a three-day Christian observance consisting of All Saints' Eve, All Saints' Day, and All Souls' Day, observed from October 31st to November 2nd.
All Saints' Day — Falls on November 1st, the day after Halloween, is a significant feast day in Christianity. It honors all the saints and martyrs, known and unknown, throughout Christian history. This day shares similarities with the Celtic holiday of Samhain and the Roman festival of Lemuria.
All Souls' Day — Observed on November 2nd, is known as the Day of the Faithfully Departed. It is a day of prayer, during which people ask God to welcome the souls of the deceased as they begin their final journey to eternal life. Many attend mass and visit the graves of loved ones on this day.
In 1915, amid the devastation of World War I, Pope Benedict XV extended All Souls' Day to the entire Catholic Church. Over time, All Saints' Day and All Souls' Day have often merged in practice and are celebrated together as part of El Día de los Muertos. This unique cultural fusion combines ancient indigenous traditions with Catholic rituals, creating a vibrant and meaningful celebration to honor and remember the departed.
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How Do You Celebrate Day of the Dead?
In 2008, the United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) recognized Mexico's Indigenous Feast Dedicated to the Dead, known as El Día de los Muertos, as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
However, like many traditions in Mexico, the celebration was primarily observed in rural Indigenous communities only gradually gaining mainstream attention in the 1980s, with the first major public celebration taking place in 1999 in the Zócalo, the historic center of Mexico City. And surprisingly, the world famous Día de los Muertos parade in Mexico City didn't start until 2016, after the movie Spectre featured a fictional version of the event. With the movie Coco in 2017 giving the holiday even more mainstream attention.
That said, celebrating Día de los Muertos is deeply personal, and each region in Mexico has its own unique customs and traditions, so there is no single way to observe the holiday. However, there are certain elements that are essential to the Día de los Muertos celebration. These include the construction of altars, the presence of pan de muerto, the use of cempasuchitl (marigold flowers), traditional skull face makeup, and the enjoyment of calaveritas (skull-shaped candies).
However, individuals and families who choose to celebrate varies widely. As a result, Día de los Muertos is celebrated differently depending on where people live and what they believe, whether through the lens of Catholicism or a belief in the supernatural. For the average tourist visiting Mexico during the Day of the Dead season, the public parades known as Comparsas and the public altars displayed in major cities are often the most visible aspects of the celebration. However, locals tend to celebrate Día de los Muertos in a more traditional manner, following customs deeply rooted in the Catholic faith.
According to these beliefs, the period between All Hallows' Eve and All Souls' Day is significant because it is thought that the veil between our world and the netherworld is at its thinnest, allowing the souls of the deceased to move freely between realms. During this time, families gather in their homes to build personal altars adorned with photographs, candles, marigold flowers, and cherished belongings of their departed loved ones. Prayers, reminiscences, and offerings of food and drink are made to honor and remember those who have passed away. It is a time of reflection, celebration, and profound connection with the spirits of the departed.
Day of the Dead Traditions: The Five Nights Leading Up to Día de los Muertos
According to traditions influenced by both Catholicism and pagan beliefs, the preparation of the altar for deceased loved ones begins on October 28th. Each night leading up to November 2nd is believed to welcome specific souls who have crossed over into the world of the living.
October 28th — On this night, the souls who perished in violent acts or suffered tragic deaths are said to walk among us. To welcome these souls, the first candle of the altar is lit, and a white flower is placed to guide them toward eternal peace.
October 29th — The second night of the celebration involves lighting a new candle and placing it on a base of water. This gesture is believed to help defenseless and forgotten souls find their way to peace and reunite with their loved ones.
October 30th — A new candle is lit with fresh water at the base of the altar, accompanied by bread symbolizing nourishment for the souls who died of hunger.
October 31st — On this night, a new candle is lit along with a glass of fresh water, and additional bread and fruit are placed on the altar. It is believed that on this day, the souls of great-grandparents, great-great-grandparents, and great aunts and uncles join the living.
November 1st — This day is known as Día de Todos los Santos (All Saints' Day). More food is added to the altar to welcome the souls of children, those who passed at birth or in the womb, as well as souls with exemplary integrity. Some also refer to this day as Día de los Angelitos (Day of the Little Angels).
November 2nd — Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead, All Souls' Day). Before dawn, the ringing of bells from local churches signals the arrival of all souls. Local cemeteries hold celebrations, with vendors and families adorning graves with marigold flowers, alcohol, and food. Families gather to mourn, laugh, and enjoy food, Mezcal, and music either at home or during cemetery picnics.
It’s important to note that while these five nights are traditionally observed, the Day of the Dead season allows for personal variations in celebration. These nights should be seen more as guidelines rather than strict rules. Additionally, local cemeteries may have their own unique customs, such as hosting La Noche de Vela (candlelight vigil) on October 31st instead of November 2nd, as is the case in Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán, Oaxaca (my hometown), where it has become the crown jewel of the Día de los Muertos celebration.
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Day of the Dead Altar: The Soul of Día de los Muertos
The Day of the Dead altar is a deeply meaningful expression of Mexican cultural beliefs surrounding death. It blends elements of both pre-Hispanic and Catholic traditions and serves as a way to honor departed loved ones and revered individuals. Rich with symbolism, the altar is typically adorned with food, beverages, photographs, flowers, and other offerings that pay tribute to the deceased. Usually made up of several levels, the altar symbolizes the connection between the spiritual and physical worlds. Each level is decorated with objects that reflect the person's religion, culture, and other significant aspects of their life and memory.
Day of the Dead Ofrenda: The Symbolism of the Altar Levels
While the traditional Día de los Muertos altar holds deep symbolism and cultural significance, it’s important to remember that these configurations are more like guidelines than strict rules. Individuals, families, and communities have the freedom to personalize their altars based on their resources, space, and personal preferences. Many people, especially those living in apartments or abroad, create simple altars by placing a photograph of their loved one on a table alongside a single candle. This minimalistic approach is still a meaningful tribute and fully embraces the spirit of Día de los Muertos. And while altars can vary in structure and symbolism, these are the three most commonly built:
Two-Tier Altars — Symbolize the division between heaven and earth, representing heavenly blessings and earthly harvests.
Three-Tier Altars — Represent earth, heaven, and the underworld. In some cases, influenced by European traditions, they are associated with earth, purgatory, and heaven, reflecting the Catholic belief in the Holy Trinity.
Seven-Tier Altars — Hold special significance as they represent the seven levels the soul must traverse to reach spiritual peace. This symbolism is rooted in Aztec culture, linking it to different destinies based on the type of death.
The true essence of building an altar lies in the intention and remembrance it represents. Whether elaborate or modest, the act of honoring the deceased and preserving their memory is at the heart of this cherished tradition. It serves as a lasting connection between the living and the departed, transcending physical and geographical boundaries. As you create your own Día de los Muertos altar, remember that it is a personal expression of love and remembrance, and the most important element is the heartfelt sentiment behind it. Through these diverse altar configurations, Día de los Muertos honors the spiritual journey of the departed, connecting the earthly realm with the spiritual, and blending indigenous and Catholic beliefs in a profound way.
Items, Decorations and Ideas on How to Make a Day of the Dead Altar
One of the beautiful aspects of a Day of the Dead altar is its flexibility—it can range from an elaborate display to a simple, heartfelt tribute. Whether your budget allows for something grand, or you prefer a more modest setup, each altar is a unique expression of remembrance. Some people focus on traditional foods and bread, while others, like my grandmother, emphasize an abundance of cempasúchitl flowers, with an arch made of sugar canes symbolizing the portal to the netherworld. There is no one "right" way to build an altar, but certain elements have become staples of the tradition, infusing the altar with the soul of the Día de los Muertos celebration.
Each item holds profound meaning and plays an essential role in honoring the departed. It is believed that these ofrendas (offerings) allow the souls to enjoy the aromas of the food, savor the taste of the fruit, and behold the vibrant marigold flowers placed in their honor. Through this act, the realms of the living and the dead converge, creating a space where they coexist. Typically, the offerings are placed on a two-level altar, symbolizing heaven and earth. A third level is sometimes added to represent purgatory, while the most elaborate altars feature seven levels, symbolizing the seven steps towards eternal rest.
And while there is no fixed formula for creating a Día de los Muertos altar, you can include any combination of the following elements:
Archway — Found at the top of the altar, the arch symbolizes the gateway to the world of the dead. Often made from sugar cane and decorated with marigold flowers, candies, and fruit, it represents the entrance to the underworld.
Beverages — Alcoholic drinks such as tequila, pulque, or eggnog are sometimes placed on altars, especially if they were enjoyed by the deceased. Non-alcoholic beverages like hot chocolate, coffee, and soda are also common offerings.
Bread — Pan de muerto (Day of the Dead bread), a sweet bread placed on the altar, represents fraternity and nourishment for the spirits.
Candles — Representing fire, candles illuminate the path for the soul, with each candle symbolizing a deceased individual. Purple candles signify mourning, while candles arranged in the shape of a cross symbolize the four cardinal points guiding the soul’s journey.
Confetti (Papel Picado) — Colorful paper cutouts featuring intricate designs, often by José Guadalupe Posada, bring vibrant energy to the altar. Purple represents mourning, while yellow symbolizes purity.
Copal — Fragrant elements like rosemary, thyme, and marjoram, along with incense and copal resin, purify the environment and attract the spirits to the offerings.
Cempasúchitl — Marigold flowers, flor de muerto, with their bright colors and distinct fragrance, guide the souls to the altar. In some altars, other flowers like tulips and birds of paradise are also used.
Family Photographs — Photographs of deceased family members are placed on the altar to honor their memory. In some traditions, the photos are hidden behind a mirror, representing their spiritual presence.
Food — Traditional dishes such as mole, tamales, tacos, and Mexican fruits like tejocote and pumpkin are offered, as well as pan de muerto.
Izcuintle — A toy representation of the Izcuintle dog, believed to help guide souls across the Chiconauhuapan River to the underworld.
Ornaments — Decorative figures, floral ornaments, and chains made of crepe paper in purple and yellow are added. Purple represents death, while yellow symbolizes life.
Petate — A woven palm mat or basket used to rest the souls. In some homes, it serves as the base of the altar for holding food and offerings.
Personal Belongings — Garments, toys, and objects associated with the deceased's life, profession, or hobbies are placed on the altar.
Religious Symbols — Crucifixes, often made from ash, salt, or marigold petals, are placed on the altar to represent the Catholic influence on the tradition.
Salt — Considered essential, salt symbolizes purification and helps preserve the body for its journey.
Seeds and Spices — Seeds, spices, and fruits represent the earth. Patterns made from cocoa or corn seeds are common, though colored sawdust is often used as well.
Sugar Skulls — Made of chocolate, amaranth, or sugar, these skulls represent death and add color and flavor to the altar.
Water — Glasses of water are placed on the altar to quench the spirits’ thirst after their long journey.
Remember, creating a Día de los Muertos altar is a deeply personal act of love and remembrance. Whether it’s an elaborate display or a simple setup, what matters most is the intention and connection it fosters between the living and the dead.
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Bread of the Dead: Hojaldras, Ingredients, Meaning, Recipe, and Regional Varieties
Pan de Muerto, or Bread of the Dead, is a traditional sweet bread baked during the Día de los Muertos season. It serves a dual purpose: as a decoration for altars honoring deceased loved ones and as a delicious treat enjoyed during this Mexican celebration. While the iconic bread with a turtle shell-like design, decorated with crossbones—known as hojaldra—is familiar to most Mexicans in both the U.S. and Mexico, Oaxaca offers a fascinating array of regional varieties with unique local ingredients.
In Oaxaca alone, there are at least eight regional versions of Pan de Muerto, each representing the culinary traditions of different communities. These breads are uniquely decorated, reflecting the cultural richness and diversity of the region. Pan de Muerto holds a special place in Mexican culture, acting as a cultural symbol even for those who do not actively celebrate Día de los Muertos. Similar to the Mooncake during the Lunar Festival in Eastern Asia, the Italian Pan dei Morti, or the English Soul Cake, Pan de Muerto represents family unity and is an essential part of the festive season.
The History of Pan de Muerto
The introduction of bread and bakeries to the New World is often credited to Hernán Cortés, who like me, could not live without bread. In 1525, he commissioned the first mill and bakery on the outskirts of Oaxaca, ensuring a steady supply of fresh bread. However, the origins of Pan de Muerto trace back even further to the Aztecs, who offered figurines made from amaranth dough and covered in prickly pear juice as symbolic offerings to their gods.
These figurines also represented those who had crossed into Mictlan, the Aztec underworld. While the exact materials used in these offerings are debated, some speculate they may have included real human parts and blood—though that's open to interpretation. The ancestor of modern Pan de Muerto can be linked to:
Papalotlaxcalli — A pre-Hispanic bread made from amaranth, corn, and agave honey, shaped like a butterfly and offered to the deceased.
Bread of Ánimas — An anthropomorphic bread used in All Saints' Day celebrations in Spain, known as "ánimita" in some regions of Mexico.
Today, Mexico is home to around 700 regional varieties of Pan de Muerto, with some made using pulque, while the hojaldra variety remains the most popular. The first known depiction of Pan de Muerto appears in the 19th-century painting El Bodegón de Panes con Naranja by José Agustín Arrieta. The first published recipe for Pan de Muerto can be found in Josefina Velázquez de León's Repostería Selecta, published in 1938.
Pan de Muerto in Oaxaca
If you visit Oaxaca during the Muertos season, you'll find a wide variety of Pan de Muerto throughout the city. The Pan de Yema variety, believed to have originated in Santo Domingo Tomaltepec near El Árbol del Tule, is available year-round, though it features a flour-baked face known as an Alfeñique (sugar skull) only during the Muertos season. In the southern and coastal regions of Oaxaca, the bread is often shaped like a human figure, called Ánima, as a dedication to the deceased being honored.
However, obtaining many regional varieties of Pan de Muerto in Oaxaca can be challenging for two reasons. First, most artisan products are typically only available in their respective local communities. Second, these unique breads are baked within a very limited timeframe. Unless you have connections within rural communities who can provide advance notice of availability, they can be difficult to acquire.
Each year, my Great Aunt painstakingly gathers an assortment of Pan de Muerto from various regions in Oaxaca and Mexico City. The sight of her altar, adorned with an incredible array of breads—each with its own shape, design, and flavor—is remarkable. From the traditional hojaldra to the lesser-known Pan de Pulque, her collection beautifully showcases the rich diversity of both Mexican and Oaxacan Pan de Muerto. It is truly a labor of love, preserving and honoring our cultural heritage.
Top: Pan de Muerto from Ocotlán de Morelos
Center: Pan de Muerto from the Central Valley known as Pan de Yema
Right: Pan de Muerto from Villa Sola de Vega
Left: Pan de Muerto from San Pedro Tidaá known as Pan de Pulque
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Flower of the Dead: The Cempazúchitl Marigold Flower Legend
Cempazúchitl, commonly known as the Flor de Muerto or Flower of the Dead, refers to the vibrant Mexican marigold. The name Cempazúchitl comes from the Nahuatl language, meaning "twenty-petaled flower." Alongside altars, bread, and skull makeup, these marigolds have become iconic symbols of the Day of the Dead celebration. However, a lesser-known ancient legend tells the story of the marigold’s origin:
In the time of the Aztecs, two young lovers, Xochitl and Huitzilin, shared a bond that began in childhood. They explored their village hand in hand, embarking on adventures and creating cherished memories together. Although delicate, Xochitl bravely accompanied Huitzilin on their many escapades. Over time, their friendship blossomed into a deep and enduring love.
One of their favorite activities was climbing a nearby mountain to offer flowers to the sun god, Tonatiuh. The god of the sun appeared to bless their offerings, smiling down upon them with his warm rays. On one such day, they made a vow to love each other for all eternity.
But tragedy struck when war came, and Huitzilin was called to fight. Not long after, Xochitl received the heartbreaking news of Huitzilin's death. Devastated, she climbed the mountain one final time, praying to the sun god for a miracle to reunite her with her beloved.
Moved by her plea, Tonatiuh cast a ray of sunlight that touched Xochitl’s cheek, transforming her into a beautiful marigold with fiery petals as radiant as the sun. At that moment, a hummingbird flew down to touch the flower’s center. It was Huitzilin, reborn in the form of a hummingbird. As the flower unfurled its twenty petals, it released a magical fragrance, symbolizing the eternal bond between the lovers. From that day on, the presence of Cempazúchitl flowers and hummingbirds on Earth would forever remind us of their undying love.
Today, Cempazúchitl flowers adorn altars and celebrations with their vibrant colors and captivating scent, honoring the enduring love of the deceased. It is believed that their bright petals guide the spirits of the departed back to their families during the Day of the Dead festivities. Beyond their symbolic role, marigolds are also valued for their medicinal properties, traditionally used in Mexican remedies for their anti-inflammatory and antiseptic qualities.
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Noche de Velas: The Candlelight Vigil in Xoxocotlán, Oaxaca on October 31st
Xoxocotlán (ho-ho-koht-lan) — from the Náhuatl word "Xoxotl," the place of acidic fruits.
Hit up the homie Done René ☞ Las Bugambilias Tours for Día de los Muerto tours.
Click on each location name to open the Google map pin on a separate browser tab.
The crown jewel of the season, in my opinion, is the candlelight vigil held in the main cemetery of my hometown, Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán, three miles south of Oaxaca Centro, on the night of October 31st.
Known to locals as "Xoxo" (pronounced ho-ho), Xoxocotlán is the second-largest town in Oaxaca’s central valley region. And near Xoxo’s central park lies the Mictlancihuatl Cemetery—locally called the new cemetery (panteón nuevo)—which pays homage to Mictlantecutli, the lord of Mictlan, the Aztec underworld.
This candlelight vigil represents the welcoming of deceased loved ones from the netherworld back into the world of the living. The night comes alive with street vendors, food, music, and carnival games filling the streets between the new and old cemeteries. The old cemetery (panteón viejo), Panteón San Sebastian built in 1535, adds a sense of old-world history to the event.
This event, free and open to the public, starts in the late afternoon of October 31st and lasts well into the next day. While many local cemeteries host similar candlelight vigils and morning picnics during the transition from October to November, the one in Xoxo is the largest and has become synonymous with Día de los Muertos in Oaxaca. For those looking for a more tourist-focused experience, the San Miguel Cemetery (Panteón General) in Oaxaca Centro offers an alternative version of the event.
Now, I’ll admit, I’m a bit biased in calling this event the crown jewel of Día de los Muertos in Oaxaca, as I have family buried in the new cemetery. This connection allows me to experience the vigil both as a local and as someone who lives between L.A. and Oaxaca, giving me a unique perspective of not only this event, but of the entire season of Día de los Muertos in Oaxaca.
How to Get to the Xoxocotlán Cemetery from Oaxaca Centro (with Google Map links)
There are several ways to reach Xoxo on your own, but if you’re a senior citizen or would rather avoid the hassle of public transportation, especially late at night, I recommend booking one of the many tours available for the event.
While the event itself is free, tours come at a cost, and in my opinion, they can be a bit pricey—so heads up. That said, you’re really paying for the convenience of transportation to and from the cemetery, and for many, the peace of mind of having reliable transport makes it worth the price.
Also, some hotels offer transportation services to and from the event, so it’s worth checking with your hotel first to see if they provide this option. Or they might recommend a tour service. But if you’re up for a bit of adventure, you can take public transportation to Xoxo and catch a taxi back. Just keep in mind that patience is key, and you will be paying a premium when catching a taxi late night in Oaxaca, especially during this event.
Bus — Take the Zaachila Yoo bus from the terminal near the Red Cross and get off in front of the Mercado Municipal Santa Elena de la Cruz, across the street from Chedraui.
Foráneo Taxis — Identifiable by their burgundy color, are by far the fastest way to get around the city. However, they don’t operate like regular taxis that take you directly where you want to go. Instead, they follow a specific route. That said, if you’re the first or only passenger, you can request an “especial,” meaning you pay the fare for the other four passengers and ride alone—still along their route, of course. Often, this can be cheaper than taking a yellow taxi, especially if you’re traveling a long distance. You can catch the Foráneo inside the Arena San Francisco, just a stone’s throw from Jardín San Francisco, and a block north of the Zaachila Yoo bus terminal. Both the Zaachila and Xoxocotlán Foráneos follow the same route, but with different drop-off points. If you take the Zaachila Foráneo, you’ll need to get off in front of the Mercado. Alternatively, the Xoxo Foráneo will drop you off at Xoxo's central park, just a block away from all the action.
Mercado de Xoxo — If you're dropped off either in front of the Mercado de Xoxo (Municipal Santa Elena de la Cruz), or across the street at Chedraui, head west on foot for three blocks to reach Parque Central Xoxo. The old cemetery is just one block west of the park, while the new cemetery is an additional three blocks northwest, all within easy walking distance.
Getting back can be tricky and sometimes ridiculously expensive, especially late at night, so be prepared for that. If you’d rather avoid the hassle, consider booking a tour service to save yourself the headache. If you’re up for it, stay as long as you can or even pull an all-nighter—many people don’t leave until sunrise, and the atmosphere gets even more magical as the night goes on.
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Day of the Dead Parades in the Colonias of Oaxaca
While the cemetery candlelight vigils are the main events and the crescendo of the Día de los Muertos season, the Comparsas—Halloween-themed parades in the neighboring colonias—are the lively celebrations that lead up to and often continue after the vigils. These parades bring a festive energy to the season, filling the streets with music, costumes, and community spirit.
Colonias — Local neighborhoods outside the historic centers of major Mexican cities. Similar to a borough, barrio, or neighborhood however, it doesn’t necessarily indicate a low-income area. For example, La Colonia del Valle is an affluent neighborhood in Mexico City, and coincidentally, my grandmother lives in a colonia of the same name in Oaxaca.
The Difference Between Each Parade in Oaxaca
Oaxaca is famous for its lively public parades, known as Calendas, which wind through the cobbled streets of the historic center. Whether you're visiting for a weekend or an extended stay, chances are you'll come across at least one of these processions—maybe even a wedding or two. At first glance, they all look the same, with their signature brass-heavy Mexican polka music (banda). But each parade has its own name and significance. Let’s break them down:
Calendas
These are the most common parades you’ll encounter in Oaxaca, celebrating everything from weddings and quinceañeras to union anniversaries, town festivals (Mayordomías), birthdays, and even funerals. Calendas often include stilt walkers, giant puppets resembling the people being honored, and a massive ball called a Marmota leading the procession. If you’re lucky, you might also see traditional female dancers known as Chinas Oaxaqueñas, especially during wedding Calendas.
Comparsas
Comparsas are parades specifically for Día de los Muertos, where participants dress up in either traditional folk costumes or Halloween-themed outfits. Families and friends often coordinate with a theme, and there's usually a fee if you want to participate in a full costume. For safety reasons, it’s best to avoid wearing a full costume unless you’ve arranged it with the organizers in advance. However, you’re welcome to join without a costume or by wearing a simple mask. If you’re participating alone, it’s best not to wear a mask at all.
Several households host the Comparsa, tossing trinkets, fruits, candy, and sometimes food, bread, hot chocolate, or Mezcal to the crowd. The festivities can go on until the early morning hours, and the money collected typically goes toward paying the band. It’s worth noting that the term Comparsa is used throughout Spain and Latin America for local parade carnivals and religious festivals.
La Muerteada
Unique to the Etla region of Oaxaca, La Muerteada is a variation of the Comparsa that lasts almost 24 hours, beginning in the afternoon of November 1st and ending at midday on November 2nd. The central performance focuses on a widow mourning her deceased husband, who she tries to revive with the help of shamans and otherworldly beings. This event often includes political satire and commentary on current events. After the performance, La Muerteada continues with all the lively elements of a typical Comparsa.
La Octava
La Octava means "the eighth night" and is a recreation of the original Comparsa that took place exactly one week earlier. If a Comparsa happened on the 1st of the month, La Octava will happen on the 8th, at the same location. According to Catholic tradition, the mourning period for the deceased lasts nine nights, with the eighth night serving as a celebration of the deceased’s life. It’s a time to honor their memory, reflect on their legacy, and find comfort in the belief that their spirit lives on. La Muerteada also has its own accompanying Octava celebration.
Comparsas in Oaxaca Centro vs The Colonias
Whether you stay in Oaxaca Centro or outside the city, you're almost guaranteed to bump into a Comparsa during the Día de los Muertos season. However, there are two major differences between them. As you might have guessed, the Comparsas in Oaxaca Centro are geared more towards tourists. With a polished, choreographed look, focusing on traditional folklore themes. They’re visually stunning but are more of a spectacle for onlookers, as participation is limited—you’ll mostly find yourself watching from the sidewalk.
On the other hand, the Comparsas in the colonias (neighborhoods) are more laid-back and often have a Halloween-inspired twist. These parades are less formal and much more participatory, inviting locals and visitors alike to join in the fun. You can dress up in costumes and immerse yourself in the festivities, which can last well into the following morning. The colonias bring a more communal, authentic vibe compared to the tourist-centric celebrations in Centro.
Both experiences have their own charm. The Comparsas in Centro offer a beautifully curated cultural experience, but if you're up for something a bit livelier and more interactive, the colonias are where you'll find the heart of the community. Personally, I’ve never attended a Comparsa in Centro—it’s just not my thing. But as a visitor, I’d recommend checking them out, just be prepared to deal with the crowd!
Three Tips for Finding Comparsas in the Boroughs of Oaxaca
If it’s your first time in Oaxaca during Día de los Muertos, I recommend starting in the historic center. Here, you’ll easily stumble upon Comparsas, as they are a common sight throughout the season. Simply step out of your hotel in the evening, and you’ll likely encounter one. Plus, the historic center is decorated with numerous public Día de los Muertos altars in businesses and art galleries, all within walking distance.
Save the off-the-beaten-path adventures for future visits when you're more familiar with the local customs and neighborhoods. Attending community events and workshops is also a great way to meet people and immerse yourself in the celebrations. However, if you’re the adventurous type or have been to Oaxaca several times for Muertos or otherwise and would like to patriciate in the Comparsas outside the city here are three tips for how to find them:
Keep an Eye Out for Murals — Two weeks before a Comparsa takes place, you'll often spot colorful murals advertising the event in the neighborhood where it will be held. These vibrant artworks act as a visual invitation, so take note of them as you explore the city, towns, and colonias. The Comparsa will always start exactly where the mural is painted, at the time listed. If you arrive late, just follow the sound of the music.
Utilize Facebook Groups — Facebook groups can be a great resource for staying updated on Comparsas. These online communities frequently post event details, parade routes, and other relevant information. By staying connected, you’ll increase your chances of attending a Comparsa, especially if you’re only in town for a few days.
Connect With Locals — While it’s generally safe to explore a colonia on your own during a Comparsa, having a local friend can give you valuable insights into the neighborhood’s dynamics and help you navigate any local customs or politics that might arise. It’s always helpful to have someone you know in case any issues come up.
La Muerteada in Villa de Etla
As mentioned earlier, La Muerteada is the granddaddy of Comparsas, but what sets it apart is that you’ll only experience it in the Etla region of Oaxaca. This 24-hour event kicks off in the late afternoon on November 1st and features a unique twist: before the parade begins, La Muerteada starts with a theatrical performance of resurrection. The storyline revolves around a widow mourning her deceased husband, attempting to bring him back to life with the help of shamans and otherworldly beings. The performance often incorporates political satire and commentary on current events.
Personally, I’ve never attended a Muerteada in all my years visiting my Grandparents during the Muertos season, mainly because there’s no public transportation back that late. Plus, hotel rooms in Etla are limited and often booked months in advance. So, unless you have your own car or can go with someone who does, it’s nearly impossible to get back to Centro afterward. That, or you could stay until sunrise. I recommend joining local Facebook groups and following the official page of La Muerteada de San Agustín Etla for updates and event details.
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La Central de Abastos de Oaxaca
As I mentioned in the prelude, Halloween in Los Angeles has felt less and less like Halloween over the past ten years. One of the main reasons is that big-box retail stores start putting out Halloween merchandise as early as August, only to replace it with Christmas items by the end of September. So when you’re scrambling for a last-minute costume in late October, there’s nothing left—kind of like dating in your 30s. And since almost no one decorates their homes anymore, big-box stores are usually the only places you’d expect to see Halloween decorations. But even that is not guaranteed.
In my opinion, this shift is one of the biggest reasons Halloween doesn’t feel the same anymore. On top of that, fewer people are watching regular TV, so advertisers no longer bother creating Halloween commercials. Modern TV shows rarely produce Halloween episodes either, which used to bring that nostalgic spooky vibe. Add in the overpriced, overcrowded Halloween events in Los Angeles—where after spending hours in traffic and paying $30 for parking, it hardly seems worth it—and the season feels a bit hollow.
Fortunately, that’s not the case in Oaxaca—especially at La Central de Abastos. This bustling market is the lifeblood of Oaxaca’s commerce, serving as the central hub where food, flowers, bread, and a vast array of goods are bought and sold. Vendors from all over the region gather here to supply everything from fresh produce and meats to traditional crafts and holiday essentials. During the Día de los Muertos season, the market overflows with vibrant marigolds, altar decorations, candles, and Pan de Muerto, making it the heart of the city’s preparations for the festivities.
Unlike in Los Angeles, where Halloween merch is pushed out too early and disappears by October, La Central doesn’t start rolling out the seasonal goods until mid-October. The market stays fully stocked with Día de los Muertos merchandise until the first few days of November. Simply walking through the crowded, narrow halls of La Central during the Muertos season really brings that authentic Halloween/Muertos vibe—more than the decorated altars you see in hotel lobbies in Centro. Here, you feel the energy of the season everywhere. And well worth a visit.
The Impact of Media Attention
Before getting into the logistics of getting to La Central, I want to emphasize one thing: I personally avoid anything that's been featured on Netflix or hyped up by influencers on Instagram, TikTok, or YouTube. This self-imposed rule especially applies in Oaxaca because any spot that's gone viral is usually overpriced, overhyped, and comes with bad service. Trust me, there’s almost always a cheaper, better alternative.
I bring this up because La Central isn’t really a go-to tourist destination, but thanks—or rather, no thanks—to Netflix overhyping a couple of eateries inside the labyrinthine market, it has slowly gained attention from tourists. And you know how it goes: tourists come in, prices go up, and the market slowly loses its charm and affordability for locals. It’s a shame, really, because despite its size and long history, La Central has long been one of the last untouched pockets of Oaxaca, free from the influence of tourists and self-proclaimed social media "influencers."
The Best Time to Visit
Visiting La Central is an adventure any day of the year, but for Día de los Muertos, the best time to go is about a week before November 2nd, starting around October 28th. Specifically, late afternoon is when the market really comes to life, with locals out in full force, shopping for costumes and grabbing last-minute items for their altars. The crowds and energy are part of the experience, and it's the perfect time to soak in the authentic preparation for the holiday.
If you're looking for the freshest Flor de Muerto (marigolds) or the best prices on altar decorations, this is the time when the market is stocked and bustling. Just keep in mind that the later it gets, the more crowded it becomes, so if you want to avoid the thickest part of the crowd, try going a little earlier in the afternoon. Either way, the atmosphere is unmatched, and you’ll get a real feel for how Oaxacans prepare for Día de los Muertos.
How to Get to La Central from El Zócalo
Click on each location to open a Google map pin on a separate tab
La Central de Abastos has multiple entrances, and it’s easy to get lost inside because, like many large markets, it’s divided into sections. You’ll find areas for dry goods, fresh produce, wholesale items, bread, clothing, and more. The section we’re focused on is the seasonal area, where merchandise changes depending on the upcoming holiday. This area is outside the main market, starting at the corner of Juárez Maza and De Mercaderes. If you continue along De Mercaderes toward Nuño del Mercado, you’ll find the best selection and prices for Flor de Muerto (cempazúchil/marigold flowers).
Now, getting to La Central de Abastos from El Zócalo is pretty easy, with several options depending on your preference:
Taxi — Ask the driver to take you to the main entrance of La Central de Autobuses at Juárez Maza and De Mercaderes. Once there, have them make a U-turn and drop you off at Chiles Juquilita across the street.
Walking — Start from El Zócalo, heading east on Valerio Trujano or Las Casas. Continue straight until you reach Periférico, then head east on Juárez Maza. Turn left on De Mercaderes, and you’ll find yourself at the main entrance of La Central de Autobuses. Alternatively, you can explore inside the market and make your way to the outdoor section on De Mercaderes. It's about a 30-minute walk, so I recommend starting early to avoid the heat, as there’s little shade along the way.
Bus — Catch any bus at the corner of Las Casas and Díaz Ordaz. If the bus goes straight on Juárez Maza, follow the taxi directions. If it turns left on Periférico, get off at the corner and walk east on Juárez Maza until you reach De Mercaderes, then follow the walking directions.
Personal Safety Tips When Visiting La Central
While it’s generally safe to visit La Central during business hours, it’s important to be aware that this area has a reputation for pickpocketing and cell phone theft. Although the situation has improved in recent years, it's still something to keep in mind. I recommend leaving expensive camera equipment at home on your first visit. Travel light and bring a camera you wouldn’t mind losing—not that it will definitely get stolen, but I've seen it happen before.
Another thing to watch out for are the diablitos (hand trucks or dollies) stacked high with boxes of heavy merchandise. If you’re distracted or stop to take pictures, you could easily get hit on the shin and it hurts like a mother. But it's not intentional—the warehouse workers pushing these dollies often can't see what’s in front of them due to the towering boxes. Once, I even saw cart full of candle boxes make a sharp turn and nearly crush an elderly woman when some boxes tumbled off. Consider this your warning!
Other things to keep in mind:
Keep Valuables Close — Make sure your wallet, phone, and other valuables are kept in front-facing pockets or bags with zippers. Cross-body bags are ideal as they’re harder to snatch.
Visit with a Friend — If it's your first time visiting La Central, consider going with a local or a friend. Having someone with you, especially someone familiar with the area, can help you navigate the market more easily. This place is labyrinth, and you will get lost the further you venture in.
Watch Your Step — In addition to the risk of getting hit by diablitos, the market is usually very crowded, and it’s easy to trip over uneven pavement, loose items, or stray goods on the floor. Also, be on the lookout for random puddles of black water that tend to form through the market. Wear comfortable shoes with a good grip.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings — Stay alert in busy, congested areas, especially near entrances and exits where pickpockets might operate. It’s easy to get distracted by all the activity and the bustling crowds, but keeping your head up can help prevent issues.
Hydrate and Take Breaks — La Central is huge, and you can easily spend hours walking around. Make sure to stay hydrated and take breaks, especially if it’s hot outside, which it usually is. It’s Oaxaca.
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The Real Meaning of Día de los Muertos
When you strip away all the iconic symbols, the true heart of Día de los Muertos is simple: it's about remembering those who have passed and being grateful for those who are still with us. That’s it. Plain and simple. Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. This act of remembrance transcends all cultures and religions because it’s deeply personal. You choose how to honor those in your life who have crossed over—whether it’s through an elaborate altar or by simply sifting through a box of old photos.
And if you want to wear skull or Catrina makeup, go for it. No one "owns" this holiday. Even if you’re not Mexican, don’t let anyone tell you that you can’t participate. How you choose to honor the holiday is up to you—whether at home, in Mexico, or at a special event in L.A. or another major city in the U.S. How you celebrate, how you remember, is entirely up to you.
In the end, Día de los Muertos is a reminder that our loved ones are never truly gone, as long as we continue to carry their memory in our hearts and actions. It’s also a time to remind ourselves to cherish those who are still with us, because one day they too will become part of the stories we carry forward.
El camino a casa, nunca se olvida.
The guide to Día de los Muertos, the altar, bread and traditions in Mexico.