Devil’s Bargain: Why the Church of Cuilápam de Guerrero in the Outskirts of Oaxaca Was Left Unfinished

Nestled six miles south of Oaxaca’s capital is Cuilápam de Guerrero, a sleepy town named after General Vicente Guerrero, Mexico’s second president, who was executed by firing squad on Valentine’s Day in 1831 behind the former monastery of Santiago Apóstol—known locally as the Basilica or Ex Convento de Cuilápam de Guerrero. It is even said the remains of the beheaded Zapotec Princess Donají lie buried beneath the temple.

Today, this unfinished basilica, with its missing roof and incomplete pillars, stands as a haunting symbol of a grandeur that never fully came to be. And despite its name, the former monastery of Santiago Apóstol was historically occupied by male monks, not female nuns, as convents are typically associated with. Why this inconsistency exists, I’m not sure. For clarity, however, I’ll refer to it as a monastery, while acknowledging the local community’s common use of the term convent.

How to Get to The Municipality of Cuilápam de Guerrero

To reach Cuilápam from Oaxaca Centro, take the Zaachila Yoo bus from the depot near El Zócalo, or spring for a guided tour by Las Bugambilias Tours.

Aside from the church however, Cuilápam doesn’t offer much else to see, so I recommend planning your visit on a Thursday to explore the outdoor market in Zaachila afterward. There, you can enjoy mouthwatering tacos or deep-fried tilapia.

Conveniently, the same bus line will drop you off at the second depot by one of the entrances to the market. And yes, you can catch the same bus back to Oaxaca Centro in the same depot.

The History of the Monastery of Santiago Apóstol

After Hernán Cortés conquered the Aztec Empire in 1525, he was granted the title Marqués del Valle de Oaxaca, ruling from 1529 to 1541. Recognizing the need for a Catholic stronghold near Oaxaca’s capital, he commissioned a grand church to extend religious influence over the region.

The chosen site was believed to be a sacred burial ground of the Zaachila people, where legend holds that Princess Donají’s disembodied head was laid to rest. With the church planned atop this hallowed ground, a blend of indigenous and European histories took root.

During Cortés’ visits to Oaxaca, such as in 1535 when he oversaw agricultural projects in San Sebastian Etla, he laid the foundation for his vision, introducing wheat, sugar cane, and mills to the region—bringing bread, sugar, and rum (aguardiente) into local life. Cortés didn’t stay in one place for long due to security concerns, yet ruins believed to be one of his haciendas still stand nearby, marked by an L-shaped wall, bearing his enduring link to Cuilápam.

After Cortés’ death in 1547, his heir, Don Martín Cortés, continued the mission, initiating the construction of the monastery of Santiago Apóstol in Cuilápam in 1556. However, financial conflicts with the Spanish Crown halted the project in 1570, leaving the church permanently unfinished.

During the fourteen years of active construction, architect Antonio De Barbosa blended 16th-century European styles, creating a structure that remains a testament to both Cortés’ ambition and the artistry of the period. This unfinished monastery, standing over sacred ground, holds the rich historical layers of Cuilápam de Guerrero. While these events offer a factual account, locals have woven their own supernatural tale over the years, explaining why the church was left incomplete.

The Supernatural Legend of Cuilápam's Unfinished Church

Local folklore tells of a mysterious visitor to the Cuilápam monastery—a cloaked figure in a noble top hat, who met with Prior General Domingo de Aguiñaga under the cover of night. This enigmatic figure, dressed in black robes that melted into the night sky, arrived in a grand coach drawn by two black Friesian horses.

One evening, the Prior warned the friars to stay in their quarters as night fell, cautioning them of strange events that would soon unfold. True to his words, shadowy figures appeared in the monastery’s courtyard past midnight, and the cloaked figure could be seen overseeing construction.

Throughout the night, these shadows worked with uncanny speed, mixing concrete, raising pillars, and building arches. By dawn, as the central dome was nearing completion, a rooster’s crow pierced the silence. Instantly, all construction stopped, and the shadows vanished, leaving the temple unfinished.

Years later, the Prior, on his deathbed, confessed that the cloaked figure was the Devil himself, who had promised to complete the church in a single night in exchange for the souls of the congregation by dawn. But the Prior had no intention of keeping this pact; he arranged for a rooster to crow before dawn, tricking the Devil into abandoning the project, sparing the souls and leaving the temple forever unfinished.

Why is Cuilápam Named de Guerrero?

Vicente Guerrero, Mexico's second president, rose to power as Commander in Chief of the insurgent army in the Mexican War of Independence after the execution of José Maria Morelos in 1815. In 1829, during his brief presidency, Guerrero made history by abolishing slavery—36 years before the United States. He championed the rights of the common people, calling for public education and land reform.

However, his progressive leadership was short-lived. In a rebellion led by his vice president, Anastasio Bustamante, Guerrero was deposed, captured, and ultimately executed by firing squad in 1831 behind the former monastery of Santiago Apóstol, in what is now known as Cuilápam de Guerrero.